reboot wardrobe restyle

smiley-1020187_1920Lost my mojo a bit half way through last week. I started off all guns blazing with my wardrobe week, Monday was sorting day and Tuesday was trying-on day. I was posting on Instagram as I went along, practicing using some hashtags. Mid-week, I started writing a blog post but I couldn’t seem to focus and the words didn’t flow. As each day passed and I missed my planned deadline, I had to re-write as the context was wrong. Towards the end of the week my motivation trailed off and I’ve been avoiding the keyboard all weekend.

It’s been a weird couple of weeks, we lost someone very dear to our community, very suddenly; someone I saw everyday who was taken before his time. For the first week or so, I was in shocked disbelief, the family were keeping busy and life seemed to feel normal. But as reality sunk in, the mood quietened and shock turned to sadness. It was the funeral on Friday, an amazing service attended by over 100 people, a sunny day to say goodbye. And it hits you that you will never see that person again. And everything seems a bit trivial, it’s hard to be excited about your wardrobe or blog about fashion brands.

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This is when I miss working as part of a team, when I find working alone at home is particularly challenging. Your motivation has to come from within and it’s hard when something happens to unsteady the force. At the best of times blogging can feel lonely, despite what your Google analytics are telling you, it’s not the same as proper human interaction. This is such a personal journey for me, the culmination of all of my life so far and a search for a new career at an age when I fall harder. I’ve put myself out there because so much of what I am doing is who I am.

On reflection, my reluctance to blog has been me wrestling with how to restart, it didn’t feel right to carry on as if nothing has happened. I feel vulnerable, angry and that life is unfair and those are real emotions that will inform my future in some way, they can’t be ignored. But until recently, I was excited and enjoying blogging, making some valuable connections and feeling positive about the future. So I need a reboot, a challenge to get me fired up again.

For some time now, I’ve been trying to master the art of writing and publishing a quick blog post rather than pouring over it for days! And I’d like to generate more readers and followers, so I’ve had a crash course in hashtags from my lovely mentor, Sylwia and I’m practicing using other social media channels with hashtags in between blog posts.

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With these two things in mind, I’ve made a plan and I’m going to gather up the work I started last week and post each day, keeping each post short and posting updates on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook. Going forward I’m using #emmasfashionblog for everything I post and adding either #wardrobe #upcycle #sewing #ethical to identify the blog category. Since my trying on session I’ve tried to wear something each day that I’ve rediscovered in my wardrobe, so I will continue this week, posting using #reloved. Please join me, find something you haven’t worn for a long time, take a pic and post on Instagram using #emmasfashionblog #wardrobe #reloved

So, the week ahead … following my own “Restyle Your Own Wardrobe Guide”, featured in an earlier post.

Tuesday – Edit & Sort

Wednesday – Trying On 

Thursday – Understanding Your Shape

Friday – Summer Capsule Wardrobe

I’m on a steep learning curve, thankful that social media is fast moving and my mistakes disappear quickly! Feedback keeps me going, it’s so lovely when people respond or are moved to comment. Keep in touch, talk to me or even subscribe by using the button on the right – it’ll make my day!

 

 

restyle your own wardrobe

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Does this sound familiar … you wear less than 50% of your wardrobe, you find yourself staring into the cupboard thinking “I have nothing to wear”, you go shopping and impulse buy items that look good in the store but when you get them home, you’ve nothing to wear them with or they disappoint when you put them on? So you stick to the familiar 50% and the new items decorate the cupboard with the tags on. Well it was only cheap so it’s no big deal. Unworn items are given away to charity but Africa has enough of our unwanted clothes and our donations are stifling their home industries. And despite what H&M have told us this week, very few textiles can actually be recycled into new textiles, the processes simply don’t exist.

The idea of buying clothes based on what we need is long gone with past generations when people had a Sunday best outfit, a party dress, clothes for work, home etc. Have you ever thought about those beautiful antique wardrobes? People actually used to be able to fit their clothes in them! Now, it’s a whole wall of storage required and we claim to have nothing to wear.

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My ethical guide to fast fashion starts with 1) plan a capsule wardrobe for the season ahead. In order to plan what we need, we need to know what we have. Then when you know what you have in your wardrobe you can identify the gaps, key purchases that will offer new outfit combinations and make use of the pieces you aren’t wearing. The other element to this is knowing yourself, your body shape and what suits you. That’s the secret to style, it comes from within, it’s a confidence that is born out of knowing you look good and feeling comfortable, wearing clothes that fit well and flatter your shape. Style is not being able to copy someone else’s look or pick the latest trends off the shelves.

This all takes time, of course, but it’s worth some upfront investment … I guarantee you will feel liberated. You will be able to buy quality items because you will be buying less of them and you will love your clothes again because you will know them. This is the basis of our Wardrobe Restyling service, aimed at guiding clients towards creating a capsule wardrobe by upcycling and restyling existing pieces, using what you already have in your wardrobe.  I’ve adapted our service to a Restyle Your Own Wardrobe Guide, to help you tackle your own wardrobe, find some clarity and hopefully, a few ideas to find your own style. It’s a good idea to get a friend to help you, someone with a good eye who will be honest. You’ll need a couple of spare clothes rails, keep one empty. You’ll also need some luggage tags, a camera, a pencil and paper and a black bag.

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  1. Groups like items together; trousers, dresses, tops etc.
  2. Have a look at each group …
  • Do you have multiples of the same item? Do you wear one or two more than the others? Why? Put your favourites back into the wardrobe and the others on the empty rail. What made you buy these pieces when you already had similar in your wardrobe, what do you like about them ….. write on a tag and hang the tag on the hanger with each item.
  • Pick out items you don’t wear and think about why … is it because you have nothing to wear them with? Or that you like them but you don’t know how to wear them? Is it simply that you bought it on a whim and you don’t like it? If it’s the latter then put it in the black bag. Otherwise write the reason on a tag and hang it on the item. 
  • Pick out items you’ve never worn. Why? Do you like some element of the item but not others; the shape but not the colour, the style but not the fabric, is the fit wrong? Write the reason on a tag and hang up. Is there a common quality about these items that makes you buy them but then you don’t wear them?
  • Be ruthless about the quality of items. If they are washed out of shape, faded or scruffy, they’re not going to spark that inner confidence … black bag. If they’re looking scruffy and damaged, think about how long you’ve had them and how many times you’ve worn them, you may even remember how much you paid for the item. Was it a wise purchase, how much did it cost per wear?
  • Comfy clothes – remember you need to love ALL your wardrobe to spark that confidence and develop your style. Don’t wear stuff you’d be embarrassed to open the door in, it’s probably because they make you feel crap. I’ve discovered recently the joy of decent house clothes, wearing them reminds me I dress for me and it makes me smile when I look in the mirror.

Ok, so you now have a rail of duplicates, items you like but don’t wear and items you like some element of but there is something wrong with them.

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  1. Put on a pair of leggings and a tight vest top and take a good long look in the mirror. Get your friend to take a photo of your back and look at that too. Make a list of your features, start with the GOOD and then do the BAD.
  2. Pick out two favourite outfits, that represent your personal style … ones you get complimented on and make you feel confident. Try them on and have a good look at each. Take photos and make a list of what you like about them. Is it the colour, shape, style, fit, details … does your friend agree?
  3. If you are brave, try on a couple of things that don’t fit properly, where are the problem areas .. the hips, shoulders, length?
  4. Look at yourself with and without makeup, think about your complexion. Try different colours against your skin or treat yourself to having your colours done.

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So, you’ve had an honest look at your shape, a rest and a cup of tea, it’s time to try on. Spare a thought for your undies, they may be hidden from view but can make such a difference to how an outfit looks and how you feel. Wear undies and a bra that suits your shape, if you don’t know what that is, it’s worth promising yourself a bra fitting.

Come back to your rail;

  1. Things you have multiples of or you’ve never worn because you like the colour but not the shape, for example, can they be upcycled taking advantage of the bits you like and getting rid of the bits you don’t? A dress can be made into a skirt, a top into a jacket, a cardigan into a waistcoat. Collars or trouser legs can be reshaped to update style or simply changing the buttons can alter the look. If it’s the fit that’s wrong, have the item altered, shorten the length or nip in a side seam can make a dress look completely different. Have a go at sewing yourself or find a local seamstress, you can pay someone to alter items with the money you’ll save with your new strategic approach to shopping. And don’t forget items that can be repaired to make them wearable again.
  2. Things you don’t wear, try them on. Think about what would go with it, bearing in mind your shape. Try something random, you never know; be brave … clash a pattern or introduce a colour. If you really can’t find an item in your wardrobe then write on your “to buy” list. If you find some new outfit combinations, take a photo and hang back in your wardrobe. Any items awaiting a match, hang in your wardrobe in a group and label them, give yourself a time limit to find a matching piece.
  3. Have a play with your accessories, they can be key to lifting an everyday outfit or getting multiple looks from the same item. Be brave, even the craziest combination can make sense with the right accessory because it says you’ve made a fashion decision rather than a random match. Scarves, beads, belts, jewelry ….. pick out the detail or layer vests under tops that match with your accessory.
  4. Take photos of outfits you like and items to be upcycled or repaired. 
  5. Have a rummage through the tags, make a note of any pitfalls you might want to avoid in future … are you prone to impulse buy in the sales, do you panic when you need an outfit for a special occasion and buy rather than try what you already have. Are there colours and styles you are drawn to but don’t suit you, don’t follow trends if they don’t suit you.

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  1. Compile your photos into a booklet to keep by your wardrobe for inspiration and take it shopping with you to remind yourself of your best looks. Also take photos of styles and colours you want to avoid, a stark reminder of what you look like in shocking pink rather than the model in the store ad will steer you away from an unwise purchase.
  2. Always make a list of what you need before hitting the shops. Pick out the stores you plan to visit and research online what they have before you go.
  3. Keep reviewing your wardrobe. Keep taking photos of new combinations. Those items awaiting a match, if you still haven’t found one in x months, maybe it’s not meant to be.
  4. Now you are buying fewer items, buy quality and make them last longer. You know what suits you now so you’ll want to wear for longer.
  5. If you do want to get rid of stuff, think about where you donate it. Local charities are good who help the homeless or refugees and organisations such as Dress for Success or Career Wardrobe who provide clothes for people trying to get back to work.

Good Luck and most of all Have Fun, watch your confidence grow and your style develop. Let me know how you get on and share your experiences with me by social media.

 

 

 

upcycle: embroidered velvet dress

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I can’t remember where I got this, it’s been in my “to do” drawer for years. It’s made of the most gorgeous soft velvet and the embroidery is, perhaps a little full on, but it’s interesting. I had seen a shift dress in the White Company catalogue and loved it so I thought I would make my own version (that’s £95 saved!) And it was Lauren’s 18th, she’s very special to me, so I needed something special to wear!

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I went for option 3. I did feel the embroidery needed reducing and I liked the V-shape that was created with the embroidery. See how it also draws the eye down the dress and makes it look longer and narrower and more flattering.

And it gave me a chance to try applique with my new sewing machine! Bonus!

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I did this upcycle shortly after the bodywarmer so with PTSD (post traumatic sewing disorder), I needed a nice easy upcycle to feel the love again.  I shortened the length, took in and shaped the side seams, the fabric was lovely to handle and sew. Then I shortened the sleeves, I’ve kept those cuffs for another upcycle ….just noticed the pic below, they look like a couple of pints of Guinness! Cheers! Sewing love affair renewed!

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A good time had by all, I felt stylish and comfortable …. my perfect combination for any outfit! Officially named my “Lauren dress”.

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upcycle bicycle: tribute to #fashrev

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My tribute to Fashion Revolution and my silent protest against fast fashion, I’m a walking #haulternative to shopping on the high street. Upcycled vintage skirt, given to me by a friend; home-made top and jacket and my shoes are one of my best investment buys, featured in Fridays post. Even my jewelry .. the one with the purple beads was 2hand and the other two I’ve owned for over 10 years and I wear them every day.

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I had so many friends on FB say they loved this skirt as it was, I decided to stay true to the original design. I was also intrigued by the branding on the inside of the hem so I did a little research. Sportaville were a London company well known for vibrant novelty prints, this one dates from the late 1950s. Their garments were made from high quality cotton, as this one is, often from a French manufacturer, Boussac.  One of their mainstay products was the “kit-skirt”, customers bought the fabric cut to shape and made up themselves. I just love the fact that this skirt has a story and a history to it, that I’ve been able to bring it back to life; makes it all the more delicious to wear!

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As lovely as it was, it was tiny so I needed to alter the waist to fit me. I took out a couple of the pleats at the front and put a new waistband on it. I went for a vintage-look washed out denim that I had in my fabric drawer which toned with the confetti dots but didn’t detract from the print design. I was able to keep the pleats at the back and found a button in my sewing box in the perfect colour.

As it’s a full, pleated style, it calls for a short top showing the waist. The flowered top above is a vintage M&S one which fits me well and was the boxy shape I wanted. I took a pattern from it and used the same denim as the waistband. I’m a bit partial to raw edge denim, it happens to be on trend and I thought it would give the skirt a modern twist! I was determined to use the top hat waistband somewhere!

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The jacket was a piece I made in my 2nd year at college. The top was attached to the jacket, at the back shoulders and waist … to put it on you had to lift over the head .. not very practical. I took the top out, it wasn’t quite right with skirt so I’ve saved that for another upcycle.

I wore my tribute outfit to go to an exhibition of The Upcycle Project organised by Fashion Revolution attended by the wonderful #fashrev team, pictured below with founders Orsola de Castro and Carry Somers. The project was a 2 day upcycling workshop for fashion students, lead by experienced practitioners from the industry, including Dr Noki. They used textile waste and experimented with new techniques and materials. The garments were then exhibited and auctioned to raise money for Fashion Revolution. I’m going to have a go at the Dr Noki t-shirt slashing technique in a future upcycle.

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#fashrev day 4: garment making

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I don’t remember learning to sew, I’ve just always done it. I’ve never had any formal training and I’m still learning, I make so many mistakes, it baffles me that I’m still at it. But there is something about the feel of the fabric, the sound of my machine and the joy of wearing something I’ve made myself that keeps me going. I’m fascinated by the clever way in which a garment comes together, like a beautiful puzzle.

I want to share this passion and I want to find time to do more sewing, so I’m starting a sewing club. I’m launching this during Fashion Revolution week and we’re aiming for 1134 hours of sewing in 12months as a tribute to those people who died making clothes for the Western market in the  Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh in 2013. I’ve gathered together some friends, either because they sew or are willing to have a go at learning (or re-learning). We’ll each pledge a number of hours of sewing each month and once a month we’ll get together … chat, compare, share of our trials and triumphs. We’ll do everything from a full pattern to mending / altering or learning to use a sewing machine … anything that might enable my friends to use clothes they already have rather than buy new. We’ll be posting some of our 1134 hours on social media.

 

 

 

 

 

#haulternative – fashion revolution week 18-24th april

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There is an amazing organisation, I’ve talked about them before, founded by Carry Somers and Orsola de Castro called Fashion Revolution. In 2013 when the Rana Plaza building in Bangladesh collapsed killing 1,134 and injuring 2,500 who were making clothes for the Western market, these two ladies decided enough was enough. They have campaigned since for a fairer, cleaner, more transparent and more beautiful fashion industry.

24th April is the anniversary of the disaster, declared Fashion Revolution Day and every year since professionals and consumers have asked, via social media, their favourite brands one vital question which most brands are still unable to answer.

WhoMadeMyClothes (1)This year they have gone a step further and declared Fashion Revolution Week 18-24th April, with their #haulternative campaign when each day will have a different focus. So I’m going to join them. As well as asking my own favourite brands the million dollar question I will post every day, talking about a different aspect of my approach to ethical fashion. There is huge debate about whether change will be brand led or consumer led but the reality as always is that unless we all join together, people will continue to be forced into unfair employment and poor working conditions. The environment will suffer as chemical waste is added and vital resources are taken away.

A few weeks ago, I posted my ethical guide to fast fashion. My Fashion Revolution posts will tell you how I follow this guide and hopefully, give you some pointers on how we can all play a small part for the greater good and our future generations.

  1. Plan a capsule wardrobe for the season ahead.
  2. Buy quality staples; jeans, leggings, shoes … think price per wear.
  3. For trends shop second hand and upcycle.
  4. Use brands I trust for new items.
  5. Plan before hitting the shops, write a list and try to stick to it.

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total upcycle, bomber jacket bodywarmer

Ethical fashion code: for trends, shop second hand and upcycle. Here three garments become one and I have a bomber jacket .. one of this spring’s trends.

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It wasn’t all plain sailing though, in truth, this one was a bit of a nightmare and left even me wondering whether I should jump on the bus to the high street!

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Getting the armholes even was the first challenge. It was very oversized and I guess as a sleeveless jacket the shoulders looked more exaggerated than they had when they had sleeves. Then I got caught out by the lining .. when a garment is made from scratch there is a particular way it needs to go together so that the finishings are hidden and edges enclosed … circumventing this and working backwards as you have to do with upcycling is sometimes a bit tricky. Then, just when I thought I was on the home straight! Doh! I thought I was being clever using raw edged denim, no need to finish the edge and picking up on a Spring trend. But oh no, I realised I had not considered the edge of the wadding and the jacket .. oops, I didn’t see any of that on the catwalk! Learnt a few things about zips too (it doesn’t actually fasten)!

All in all, many lessons learned and with the help of YouTube tutorials, we got there and I’ve worn it twice this week. Had a few nice comments from friends which always makes it feel worth the effort. It’s not perfect but one day I’ll have another go and make another one. As far as upcycling goes, I’m chuffed with the fact that I managed to use the welt and collar from an unwanted jumper and the denim from an unwanted pair of jeans … TOTAL UPCYCLE!

A bit of a side comment … go careful when you hear the word “vintage”. I bought the jacket from a well known second hand market place online, advertised as vintage, worn by a very cool looking model with a price tag to match. Actually, I don’t think it is vintage at all but I probably paid three times what I would have done if it had just been labelled second hand … another lesson learned … my brain is hurting now!

my ethical guide to fast fashion

Hold on tight, fast fashion is set to get faster with a new trend called “see now, buy now”. The fashion calendar currently kicks off with designer brands showing their collections for the season ahead in New York, London, Milan and Paris. Buyers make their selections and place orders. Then the garments are produced, known as cut-make-trim …. so the fabric is cut then the garments are manufactured and finished ready for sale. Show to store takes about 4 months. However, some designer brands are shifting the cycle so that garments will be available as soon as they hit the catwalk. There are all sorts of implications for professionals within the industry but I’m not going to comment on those. I just want everyone to STOP and think what this actually means … this massive global industry is going to throw even more at us! And we’re going to be tempted to buy even more! The high streets are going to race faster and harder to copy the catwalks, the media is going to tell us about even faster changing trends, our wardrobes are going to burst at the seams whilst our bank accounts will get redder and redder … and we’ll still say we have nothing to wear! STOP!

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The Japanese art of Wabi-Sabi .. find beauty in all things and value authenticity above all, everything today’s sleek mass-produced, tech-saturated culture isn’t. There was an article in the Guardian at the weekend about Lidl’s £5.99 jeans (I’ve shared it on Facebook and Twitter). Are we really saying that it makes sense that a pair of jeans we might wear dozens of times can be made for the price of two cups of coffee! Again STOP! This just doesn’t make any sense … #if it seems to good to be true, that’s because it is!

BUT, I love fashion and clothes, I read magazines and I pick up trends to update my wardrobe and my mood! £5.99 for a pair of jeans screams WRONG to me but it’s not always that obvious. Brands will say they are led by their customers but how many of us feel like leaders? When I’m in a store, confronted with bargain after bargain, rail after rail and that compulsion to buy … I feel more like a sheep! I make random, impulsive decisions and take home clothes I didn’t need and discover I don’t want! I guess the brands are right though, they’re in it for the profit and if we are buying then they will respond to that, regardless of how empowered we feel in making the decision to buy. We need to care more and take a step back, think about why that new outfit is a bargain and do we really need another little black dress?! A girl can never have too many little black dresses? Actually, she can, there are only so many days in the year, parties to go to or occasions to scrub up for. STOP! THINK!

So, this is my solution, my ethical guide to help me navigate this fashion industry that I love and hate at the same time!

  1. Plan a capsule wardrobe for the season ahead.
  2. Buy quality staples; jeans, leggings, shoes … think price per wear.
  3. For trends shop second hand and upcycle.
  4. Use brands I trust for new items.
  5. Plan before hitting the shops, write a list and try to stick to it.

dressing up … dip your toe into upcycling

Fancy a go at upcycling but not sure your own wardrobe is ready to be the guinea pig? Fancy dress costume is a great place to have a go. What’s more, if you do it for kids, they get the added bonus of helping to make it. It might not be as polished or flashy as a shop bought costume but I find the kids are more taken with the idea of having made their costumes than whether it looks exactly right or perfectly sewn.

I’ve just read an article from The Guardian about home sewing making a come back, which also said that sewing is sadly not taught in schools any more, so you can also provide them with a good start to a fun and essential life skill by having a go at sewing together.

We went double whammy with this one, an old blanket was upcycled and then upcycled again …. UP-UPCYCLED or DOUBLE UPCYCLED? I’m off to dig out some more pics of costumes past ….

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I’ve shared the article from The Guardian on Facebook if anyone is interested.